5 things to keep in mind for Pangarchulla Peak Climb

Posted on by Himalayan Wanderer

 

Pangarchulla Peak climb 2015 Wander the Himalayas www.wanderthehimalayas.com

Pangarchulla Peak is one of the best Himalayan Summit Trek one can do in April. The 14,700 feet peak is not a technical juggernaut. Yet, a casual approach can cost you a well-earned summit glory.

Keep in mind the five recommendations that will maximise your Summit chance.

#1. Time your trek right

Pangarchulla Peak Snow Trek is best done in the last week of April. By then the snow at the lower grounds has melted. This helps in establishing a Base Camp. The Ponies now can reach Khullara Camp. This is helpful for load ferrying purpose.

Trekking Tip: Check with your Guide on the snow conditions. This year it snowed less than usual. We saw less snow in March end compared to April-2015.

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Heading for the summit of Pangarchulla

#2. Establish an Advance Base Camp

This is something most Trek Guides and Trek Operators don’t want to disclose. If you want to maximise Summit success, establish an Advance Base Camp ahead of Khullara. The coordinates of Advance Camp is 3.5 kilometres ahead of Khullara Camp. This is keeping on the Lord Curzon Trail from where the trek route to Pangarchulla and Kuari pass forks out. Refer to Trek Map for coordinates.

Pangarchulla Peak Google earth Map

Advantages of establishing an Advance Base Camp

  • Maximise chances of a Summit success.
  • The best place to camp if you want to trek to Kuari Pass.
  • Sunset view from the campsite is breathtaking.

Trekking Tip: Establishing ABC can be a logistical challenge. Ponies will not reach here due to excess snow. It is a porter driven trek. The campsite is set on an ice-field. Be prepared with all the necessary gears to establish a camp, expedition style.

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#3. Adhere to Turn Around Time

Your Turn Around Time should be not later than 12 noon. In case you are planning the summit attempt from Khullara Base Camp then 11 am. If the weather worsens, it is wise to abort the climb for the day. Return to your nearest camp.

What is Turn Around Time?

The time of day at which climbers must turn back to descend. The unanticipated slow going can cause climbers to reach the summit late. Bad weather can jeopardise summit success and safety.

#4. Make an early start on Summit Day

You need to start not later than 3 am in the morning from Khullara Campsite. It takes 6 to 7 hours to reach the summit. For those starting from Pangarchulla-ABC, start by 6 am.

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A laborious climb

#5. Use Climbing Gear on Summit Day

Ok, this is critical. Carry a Climbing Rope, Ice Axe, and Micro Spike. A Micro Spike is a lighter alternative to Crampons. They are lightweight and easy to wear. They provide excellent traction on slippery snow.

Don’t forget to be harnessed to a rope in the final 100-meter section.

Have an exhilarating and a safe Climb.

The Gallary Trek Images is from Pangarchulla Peak Expedition in March 30th, 2016. Picture Credits: Deepak Gahlot | Lead Picture : Wander the Himalayas ©

48 thoughts on “5 things to keep in mind for Pangarchulla Peak Climb”

  5. Hello, The blog is very helpful,

    Can i ask, what’s the best route to take, is it good to start at Auli and exit back again in Auli? Im confuse of the route cos some itinerary i saw they exit in a different route.
    Iam planning to go there, and i want to stay at Auli ski resort after the trek to Pangarchulla, is that possible?

    Thanks

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    1. Thanks for your comments. You can start the trek from Dhak Village and camp at Chitrakanta camping grounds on Day 1. From there your next camp will be at Khullara campsite. On your return you can trek down to Auli via Tali lake and Gorson Meadows to Auli. This way you do not repeat the same route. Hope this helps.

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      1. Thanks a lot for your very informative response. lastly, can we i go trek independently? without guide and porter? If not can i just hire them once we have arrived at the are.

        Thank you again.

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  8. Hi, Article is Insightful. I am thinking of climbing Pangarchulla Peak during October last week or November. Will there be show there or just Meadow.

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  9. Hello, is it a trekking peak with a modest gradient? Or do I need to be technically trained. I’ve done a few treks before, the last one being Goecha la in Sikkim. I wish to attempt this summit in October this year.

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  10. Hello

    Very informative post. Thanks

    Is it advisable to do the trek in December. Previously, I have done Chadar and Goechala treks. Also suggest some local guide if possible. The trekking companies are charging too much for the same on the pretext of winters.

    Thank You

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      1. Thanks for such a prompt reply. I had a word with Mr Shiv Singh. We are planning to go with this guy. Do you have any prior experience of trekking with him? If yes, how was the overall experience?

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      2. I have taken his services twice, once for kuari pass and the other for Pangarchulla. He is a reliable guide and should give you a satisfactory experience. I suggest you discuss all aspects of services he will provide along costing beforehand. He has done guiding for private parties and big trekking companies like Indiahikes. You can refer my name, Vaibhav Chauhan, ex. Indiahikes Chief of Exploration and Documentation division.

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  12. Hello Friends

    I have planned for the trek in first week of January 2017. Ours is a group of 7-8. More may join. Its a 5 nights and 6 days trek. Brief itinerary is as follows –

    Day 1st – joshimath to dhak 10 km by car and Trek 8 km 1st camp side Gulling
    Day 2 – guling to chitrakantha 7 km
    Day 3 – chitrakantha to khulara 9 km
    Day 4 – khulara to pangarchula to kuwari pass back to khulara 9km
    Day 5 – khulara to Tali to Gorson bugyal 8 Km
    Day 6 – Gorson bugyal to Auli. 4 km back to joshimath by car…

    Departure date – 06/01/2017 (from Haridwar) to 13/01/2017 (back to Haridwar).
    If anyone is interested to join the same, please call Rajat (+91 – 8806537827).

    Most Welcome and Thank You.

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  14. Hi, thank’s for your inspiring blog! I’m interested in a Pangarchulla trek in April 2017. Could you recommend a reliable and good tour operator for this trek? I’m looking at a 8 to 10 day, preferably combined with Kuari pass.

    Cheers, Jon.

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  16. Hello Vaibhav

    As per your advise, I have just completed the Pangarchulla Trek with Shiv Singh. He was very helpful and the arrangements were awesome. I asked my friend Rajat (Trek N Climb) to organize the same. Our dates were 6th January to 11th January 2017. I I have composed a video as well.

    But we could not reach the summit as it was heavily snowing during that time. We could not setup the campsite at Khullara and thus attempted summit straightaway from Gulling campsite and thus could reach only Summit 1 of the Peak and snow was like 3-4 feet. It was an awesome trek.

    Thanks for your advise.

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    Reply

      1. Thanks Vaibhav. You are doing a great job by writing these blogs. I profoundly appreciate your efforts.

        About Pangarchulla, I must inform you that the trek we did in January 2017 was almost self planned by me. However, I roped in my friend Rajat Singh at the eleventh hour, who runs a small trek company which organizes only customized treks, for talking to Shiv Singh about the finer details.

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      2. Hello Vaibhav
        As I could not do summit in January due to heavy snow, I went back to complete the unfinished task. I tried reaching Pangarchulla summit in August 2017. It took me 7 hours to reach the peak. It was all boulder zone before the summit and I found it not easy to walk in the same. However, the area was lush green. I saw Brahma Kamal flowers and bugyals in their greens. Though I was fortunate to not to witness rains on that day but it is not advisable to trek in rainy season.
        One advise – Guys, try the peak in post-monsoon season. You will find the valley too green. It’s difficult but worth going.

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  17. Hely Hitesh,

    Amazing video. And it really got me excited for the trek. I plan to attempt it in April. And i’v got a few questions.
    First of all, how was the guide Shiv? Do you recommend him to us? And how/through which agency did you plan this trek?

    Himalayan Wanderer

    Amazing, insightful article. This is what really helps- actual, firsthand experiences of travellers. 🙂

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    1. Hello Raja

      Thanks for watching my video. Your queries –

      1. About Shiv Singh – He is soft spoken, trustworthy and a good trek organizer. The food was amazing and also the other arrangements. I highly recommend you to contact Shiv Singh if you want to go through local organizer.

      2. Agency – Trek n Climb (www.treknclimb.in) was the agency. It is a small company and prefers small batches. They are a bit costly than the big companies but it is worth spending a few extra bucks for the returns we get. Their trek leader – Rajat Singh – is an ace mountaineer and a wonderful trek leader. It is because of Rajat only that we could reach the peak despite so heavy snow.

      You may send me your other queries as well on hiteshag2012@gmail.com

      Regards,

      Hitesh Aggarwal

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      1. Hi Vaibhav / Hitesh,

        We are a group of 6-7 mainly from Bangalore who have decided to do Pangarchulla in January 2018.Any piece of advice. I saw Hitesh’s youtube video more than a couple of times. We want to do the difficult.

        How can we prepare ourselves (apart from being fit!) Do you guys think it is doable? We just want to reach the peak!

        Regards
        Nitin Shankar

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  18. Hello Nitin
    Thanks for watching the video.
    Realistically, you cannot, I repeat CANNOT, reach the summit point of Pangarchulla in January. The reason it is whole boulder zone before the summit and it’s very risky to walk in boulder zone covered with soft snow. Fresh snow makes it difficult to walk on boulder as there is risk of person falling in some cavity.
    But you would really enjoy the trek because of fresh snow. It’s really amazing to see heavy snowfall, sub-zero temperatures and many other associated icy phenomena.
    My advise – go ahead with your plan. Be well prepared and fully loaded to survive the harsh winter. But you won’t be able to reach the summit.
    However, I would be happy if proven wrong.

    Thanks

    Regards,
    Hitesh

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  19. Hi,
    Very insightful article as well as comments. Can we do this trek in sept-oct ? Will their be snow?? It would be easier to do this trek with or without snow??

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